Editor's Note

Reflections: On Surprising Access

We just stepped off the plane from a week in the Azores Islands, the Portuguese archipelago in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. Captivated and mesmerized we were, so much so that it felt apropos to dedicate this Travellers Club edition to sharing all the wonders that delighted our every sense. Our intent is to paint a picture of a few of the wonderful experiences offered there, and to compel you to see this magical landscape before it goes the way of all the other 'discovered,' and subsequently overtouristed places.

Admittedly, I have a thing for remoteness. And the exotic. The more unique or farfetched the destination, the more it intrigues me. The Azores (Açores in Portuguese) have long been on my bucket list. SATA, now rebranded as Azores Airlines, has had a direct flight from Boston since at least the 1990s, carrying the diaspora of Azorean Islanders who settled en-mass in Massachusetts and Rhode Island back to their homeland for annual visits. That flight put the possibility of the Azores on my radar. But somehow, I never went. It still felt a bit far. Yet, upon arriving on Terceira Island earlier this month, we were surprised at how many American and Canadian immigrants we encountered. Yes, the Lajes US Air Force base (and overlapping Terceira Airport) once held over 8,000 American troops, creating a very distinct North American community that influenced island culture. But, there are many others settling here too. To our surprise, the waiters serving us breakfast in the hotel were from Wisconsin and from Montreal. Remote?!, they scoffed?! Not in the least. It was the epitome of accessible escapes. They could be in Madrid partying in 3 hours, or back home in 4. Yes, the US is only a 4-hour flight away, and now that there are several flights from the Northeast and Canada to both Terceira and São Miguel Islands, North Americans are really liking the idea of the Azores.

It's been called the 'Hawaii of the Atlantic,' and for good reason. It reminded us so much of our visit to Maui years before. Created from the intersection between the North American and European tectonic plates, the nine islands of the Azores are (mostly dormant) volcanoes dusted with subtropical plants and dazzling European villages that will make your eyes delight in the juxtaposition of it all. The Açores function as Mainland Portugal's dairy farm: most of the continent's milk and cheese comes from the islands. Grass-fed, with grasses fed by earthen, volcanic soil that gives the organic products a distinct taste and purity. And the vegetables and fruits born here! Divine. The restaurants we encountered were a delight in their celebration of locally-born ingredients.

But the islands are being re-discovered, this time by a heightened tourism wave that could rob the islands of their magic. There's not enough hotels to host the influx, which is to our advantage. Even still, our favorite boutique chain opened their first property in August, and more are coming. That said, we definitely suggest setting your sights on these enchanting islets in the not too distant future. In this feature, we share our favorite finds, including a restaurant run by a father-son team that really touched our soul, unique dishes we never imagined, a chance encounter with one thousand dolphins on the first morning we were there, and a road trip around the island that had us hiking cow pasture-covered volcanoes, and picnicking in primordial forests - a plant lover's delight. Most first timers land in either São Miguel, the largest of the islands, or Terceira, and from there, discover the smaller and even more remote spots, each of which seem to offer a distinctive personality, distinctly Mid-Atlantic, and distinctly otherworldly.