On Location: Stellenbosch: Heart of South African Wine
Falling for New World Vintages
By Gray Shealy and Erin Washington
Admittedly, I was a snob about South African wine: what I had tasted in the states just didn’t appease my palette. What I had forgotten is that so many new world wines never make it off their home turf. And those were the wines that I was introduced to by a few sommeliers in Cape Town that sent me hunting to try those and more – in the very place where they grow.
Less than an hour from the city lies Stellenbosch and Franschhoek - a stunning area of rolling, grape-filled plains backed by picturesque, red peaks. Arriving at our first vineyard was like entering another world – ironically an old one. Past white columns and down a dramatic red-clay allée of Linden trees, we arrived at a gleaming, white Cape Dutch style farmhouse, with a central gable and cascading stairs to welcome us. The interiors were dark, masculine, and enveloped with wood like a maritime library from the 1500s, but the verandahs were light-filled, graceful celebrants of nature. The wines poured. Liquid grapes I’ve never tasted. Paired with snacks. Paired with chocolate bars. The palette bedazzled.
And then there was the next estate. And the next. Many had hidden hotels behind the tasting rooms. Guest suites were arranged around gorgeous garden courtyards – presumably, the guests had access to the wines almost as if on tap. I longed to stay in the shade of the big trees, lie on the grass and picnic the afternoon away.
Lunch was awaiting us at La Petite Ferme, which sat overlooking rolling vineyards beyond. Giant protea flowers sat on each table, a heralding symbol of the nation. Here, the verandah afforded us tranquil views while a host of meticulously plated French delicacies conjured from local growers were presented to us.
Full bellies be had, it was time for just one more vineyard before finishing the day on Big Bay Beach, just north of Cape Town, as we watched a foggy sunset cast the last light upon the edifices of Table Mountain. We could’ve stayed a few more days in Franschhoek alone, but this was the nature of our 5-day visit to South Africa–too little time to linger too long.
SIP + STAY
ADDITIONAL SIPS
ADDITIONAL STAYS
EAT
SEE
Stellenbosch University and Botanical Garden
GETTING THERE
The region begins about 45 minutes away from Cape Town.
Drive yourself, hire a driver, or take the Franschhoek Wine Tram or Vinehopper
From top left: view over Stellenbosch, Delaire Graff Estate sculptures; La Petite Ferme; Anthonij Rupert Wine Estate; Lanzerac's guestroom courtyard; Lanzerac Tasting Room; Approaching Lanzerac. At top: The allée at Anthonij Rupert.
Photo Credit: Syllogi
Syllogi’s ‘On Location’ is a series of trip reports reflecting on our personal travels, as we research and experience the bounty the world has on offer.
