On Location: Naoshima

By Erin Washington

We arrived at Uno Port after an hour train ride from Okayama and were greeted by excited locals telling us what their small port town had to offer, which we eagerly explored before our ferry arrived. The 20 minute ferry took us through a sea of stunning, seemingly empty islands scattered in the water, before arriving in Naoshima.

Naoshima is a small island, only 5 square miles with a very interesting mission - to revitalize an island by turning it into a must-see art destination. The island itself is completely dedicated to art and the way it interacts with nature. The museums and parts of the main hotel (Benesse House) are built underground so as not to interrupt the beauty of the landscape. Benesse House is also one of nine buildings/structures on the island designed by famed architect Tadao Ando. Rooms do not have TVs to encourage people to immerse themselves in nature and art. As you walk around the small island, pieces of art are hidden everywhere. From a very noticeable yellow pumpkin (by the renowned Yayoi Kusama) to a hidden sculpture tucked into the mountainside, to impressive museums whose collections rival the greatest in the world - you are continuously discovering something new. The original buildings in Naoshima were built with the airflow in mind: If your front and back door are open, the wind can naturally blow through it as if it were part of the original landscape. And you’re never too far from the clear, calm waters, mountains lush with trees. Even without the art, it would be a magical place to visit, reminiscent of the scenery you only see in movies like Ex-Machina or Jurassic Park (without the sinister plot twists, of course). 

Chichu Art Museum is the main attraction on the island. Buildings were made entirely of concrete and underground, but still filled with natural light. We wandered in awe for hours discovering Monets, sculptures, and more. Our favorite room was one by artist James Turrell. Groups of 10 go in and are instructed to walk up a small set of stairs towards - what looks like - a pink light on the wall. As you get closer, you realize it’s actually a pink room that you can step inside. As you walk in the room changes colors, but it’s all very surreal like you’ve stepped into another dimension. 

The view from dinner at the hotel restaurant overlooked the coastline, lined with trees that reminded me a lot of the Pacific Northwest. Dinner was an 8-course meal including grilled fish and marinated salmon - both from the sea right outside our door. We retreated to our rooms, feeling grateful that this was a place we could end our time in Japan, a country where things are done with such care and detail, and everything you see is a work of art.

Read more about Naoshima in this fantastic article by The Guardian.

Syllogi’s ‘On Location’ is a series of trip reports reflecting on our personal travels, as we research and experience the bounty the world has on offer.